Journaling My Blog Entry While Sitting On The Red Dirt Of Africa
Wednesday, June 14th, 2017
Back
home in the States it’s Flag Day. I have
traditionally communicated in some such way with my roommate from college on
this day. This year I wished him a
“Happy Flag Day” before I left for Africa.
It can be a day of allegiance, remembrance, and reflection. Today, very early in the morning when it was
still dark, I was awoken by a hyena right at the entrance to our boma about a
hundred feet away. That was exhilarating
when I thought about it, although I did drift back off to sleep.
When
I did get up and out of the tent, I went for an early morning run out to the
tarmac again. It’s a little over a 10K
(6.2 miles) as I’ve noted before, that’s run up and over 4 different ridges. It has become my personal time to think and
try to soak everything in. When I reach
the road and turn around to look at the Black Hill, I have yet to not sob aloud
from emotion. I can be an emotional
person, but not necessarily “on demand.”
It’s just that this experience moves me in such a way that it seems to
force itself upon me. I can’t hold it
back.
The Black Hill From The Tarmac
Today
I ran fast, which made it really fun, but I made sure that I greeted those
emerging from their bomas, as they progressed through their morning chores or
were beginning to take their herds out to browse. They seem to be getting used to this runner
and look for me as I pass by. I stopped
and talked with one man, waved at others, and shook hands with the boy Joseph
today as he was burning some brush and grass outside his boma area.
As
I run, I look at my outline; my shadow.
What does this outline say about the person it reflects? I ran with a small herd of 12 impalas at one
point today. When they leapt over the
thorny hedge of the property lines, they bounded almost twice their height. I also saw 7 different dik-diks. The first of these tiny little antelopes
climbed up on a termite mound to see me better, the rest would quickly
disappear into the brush as I approached and then ran on by. What did they see in me? It makes me think.
I
think about the Maasai men who have been around Kijani Farm; John, Moses,
Lanku, Sayianka, Benson, Andrew (all brothers), Raphael (the brother’s uncle),
and the old Mzee their father (pronounced “Moo-zay”). John’s Maasai name is Kapei (pronounced “Kah-pay)
and Moses is Muterian (pronounced “Moo-ter-e-an”). Had I to do it over again, personally I think
I would have called them their given name in their native language from the
beginning. I didn’t know what their
names were until later when I specifically asked them what they were and how to
spell them out, but John & Moses were the original names that they had told
us when we first met, so I guess it’s ok.
I
took a picture of the old Mzee yesterday.
You should have seen the way he stood; squaring his shoulders, standing
tall, and giving me a serious face. If
he isn’t the picture of pride, I don’t know what is; humble, friendly,
confident pride. He is a wise old sage
to many people here in this area. He
enjoyed seeing his picture on my camera and both laughed and smiled afterwards
when I showed it to him.
The Old Mzee
Moses Leaning On Me After A Run
I
think about how Moses likes to lean on me and rest his arm on my shoulder. I think of the shepherd boys. I think of the wives and children back in the
bomas. I think of the land around here
and all it represents; originally long ago, later under British Rule, and since
their freedom in the early 1960’s. I
think about what I have seen in their bomas and the huts in which they live. I think about when they have asked about our
journals. John’s writing is very good;
impeccable in fact. I think he would
enjoy writing, and said he would like a journal. This one I use is almost filled, and I don’t
have another. He’s also asked about my
shoes. He would like them I know.
Women And Children In Front Of The House In The Boma
John Looking At Todd's Journals
Typical Sandals
These
are the things I wrestle with beyond building, or butchering the last of the
roosters like I did today. I could give
them what I have, but where one receives, one is left out. These items are just that anyways; things of
material that whither and wear away. And
does this then develop a sense of dependency like the women I saw trying to
sell me jewelry at the entrance to the National Park? It rips your heart out and stomps on it. This is not just a country “Over there.” These are not just “Those people;” they are
friends now with faces and names.
As
I run I have come to this; I give them what I can. I give them honesty, truth, and respect. I give them my time and patience. I value them and listen to them; these people
that live here, my friends. It may not
seem like much. Perhaps someone would
say there is a better way. All I know is
that what I can give them by hearing, watching, and smiling will last longer
that the “stuff.”
Morning Devotion Time With Our Team
The Guys Liked Practicing With Kristin's Guitar Afterwards
It’s
kind of what I felt as a father today.
Todd led the devotion at breakfast and shared God’s human side. He did a good job using some sections from a
book, and verses from the Bible, to show how Jesus wasn’t just a man that could
pull his “God Card” anytime He wanted to avoid really knowing what we as humans
go through. Jesus really felt pain and
suffering, along with frustrations and anger.
He laughed and He joked. What I
felt as a Dad listening to my son’s lesson and humble wisdom was pride way
beyond anything that he could give me as a material gift. That has continued for me throughout the day
as I have watched Todd take pictures, and videos, and interview people that are
working here at Kijani Farm. He used a
nail gun yesterday and has cut boards, but by Brian giving him the freedom
these next two days to do the things that he is gifted at and gets excited
about, it has unleashed him. He was
nervous about it at first, and didn’t have a lot of confidence to break away
from the work force on the house and do some work of a different kind, but we
talked about it while I was cutting up the chickens. I assured him that it was still a necessary
part of our trip here and documenting the story is important. Think of what war correspondents must feel
when they are writing and taking pictures while bullets fly and people are
dying. This is nothing like that, but
the point is made that telling the story is paramount.
Todd Checking His Field Notes On What He Wants To Capture
Many
times today I have lifted my arms and said “Thank You” to God. The first was when I woke to the hyena and
then when I was running with my thoughts and tears. Later, it was while thanking God for the meat
before killing and butchering the chickens for tonight’s meal. I enjoyed talking to Andrew, who watched me
butchering, and Paul Fay who helped.
I’ve enjoyed the conversations with my son and watching him. I’ve enjoyed the relationship building with
the Maasai men throughout the day.
Andrew Takes A picture Of Todd And Lanku
Butchering A Rooster With Paul And Andrew
It’s
hot, and from where I’ve been sitting the shade has moved. I’ve now written and will go pull the chicken
meat from the bones so we’re ready to add rice and the cheesy potato mix. Todd and Kristin said they would help as the
other members of the Team finish putting on the metal roofing. They’ve been working hard out in the direct
sun. We’ll all be ready for a hearty
meal around the campfire this evening.
Jake, Nyles, Noah, And Patty Putting On The Metal Roof Sheets
Gabe And Jeff Down Below
These
are the things I raise my arms for. Like
our country’s flag back home, these are the things I want to have an allegiance
to, and remember and reflect on. Thank
you God for this picture and story I am a part of here on the flip side.
Jeff, Nyles, And Gabe Assembling The Framing For A Window
Tuesday, June 13th, 2017
I
awoke early again. You do that in the
bush, with birds, and roosters, and the first rays of light cascading down (for
today) through a light cloud cover.
MORNING SOUNDS VIDEO:
Todd
and I ran four miles. He loved the
opportunity to run the red dirt path of Africa, but it was also like the first
days of the cross country season when he was back in high school; he was
whipped as it’s been a while since he’s run.
I am proud of him as a dad, but have grown in my understanding of him,
and our relationship together as well, on this trip. He is creative, thoughtful, and willing to
try new things. Throughout this
experience he has worked to find his niche, as each of us has, when one task is
completed and then you look for or ask about what can be done next.
John
Fay and Jeff Ingersoll cut up some veggies and then added them to the eggs for
breakfast. Noah led us in a devotion
form The Master Carpenter on faith like a mustard seed (Matthew
13:31-32), and likened that to an oak tree.
I could relate to that, having been surrounded by massive, old burr oak
trees at our previous house. In a given
year it said an oak will produce 2,000 to 3,000 acorns depending on the
conditions. The average acorn has a 1
out of 10,000 chance of becoming a tree.
Those are crazy odds for such a majestic tree. Like the little tiny seed becoming a tree,
with a little bit of faith and by saying, Yes, I’m available,” you can do great
things.
Todd, Kristin, And Noah Making Fly Traps From The Empty Water Jugs
Today
I used almost every tool we had at Kijani.
Our entire Tumaini Team did. It
was one of those kinds of days. We
literally worked, or were active, from sun up to well after sun down. My body is tired, and it typically takes me a
while to get to that point. We used
circular saws, impact drills, regular drills with various kinds of bits, the
nail gun, reciprocal saws, and I even pulled out the chainsaw at one point to
trim a few of the bigger limbs off the trees within the boma. I was going to use what I had trimmed as
firewood for the fire, but between the hardness of the trees and the dullness
of the chain, it wasn’t really worth it.
Moses collected more branches by hand, that were lying around on the
ground, than I did in the same amount of time with the saw. It was humorous.
Patty And Jake Sizing Up The Next Task
John Fay And Patty Inserting A Window After Todd And I Drilled Holes In It
Moses And Andrew Watch The Action
An Unknown Bird Of Prey Kept Calling From Kijani's Tallest Tree
For
the STEM House we now have all of the studs in for the interior walls, we
framed out where the windows will go, drilled the steel window frames, and then
installed the windows. Cripples were
added between the studs and beams, as well as boards, to allow us to attach
wall boards at a later date. Brian
Dellamater, his son Gabe, and our Maasai friend John, who acted as an
interpreter to make sure that we got the correct items this time, went to
Namanga and ordered the steel needed for the exterior walls and roofing among
other items while we were working. As we
were cleaning up around our job site by rearranging boards and tables for the
next couple of days, Brian and his crew showed up. They were followed by a delivery truck full
of corrugated steel sheeting.
Joseph (Taking A Break From His Cows) Wants To Try A Drill
Atta Boy!
Look Joseph, You Can See Kristin Over There : )
Darkness
was upon us at that point, but the delivery guys still unloaded their supplies. It was a hot day, but fortunately it cools
off great at night. Surrounded by that
cool, fresh air we all had a good night’s sleep; after a meal & easy
conversation around the campfire. We’ve
been putting the hammer down as we go into the final stretch here on the flip
side.
See
you along The Way…
It's Been A Hard Day's Night, And We've Been Working Like A Dog
In
the middle of the night, under the bright light of the moon, our roosters
crowed. It was so bright you could see
distinct shadows, so I understood their confusion. Still, it’s not something you typically want
to hear at full volume when you’re trying to sleep. The roosters weren’t the only ones confused;
however, as even the native birds would occasionally call out.
When
the sun did start to rise, the critters were uncharacteristically quiet; until
zebras and hyenas sounded off somewhere to the south, near the basin at the
front of the Black Hill. When I rose,
these are the things I did:
1.
I ran 6.2 miles to the tarmac
and back. It was another good run to
start the day. I saw an impala and three
dik diks. The dik diks are such a small
little antelope. When I looked at their
prints in the soft sand, the cloven hoof was anywhere from a ½ to ¾ of an inch
long.
2.
I ate a bowl of oatmeal and
took a splash bath. As a Team we
listened and talked about Kristin’s devotion over Psalm 23. We focused on the idea of Christ being a
shepherd with His guidance; something easy to relate to in an area of Kenya
where so many of the people have herds of goats or cattle. David, who wrote the Psalm, had been a
shepherd boy who lived in an arid region much like where we were now; imagine
the “green pastures” he talked about in such a land as this.
3.
I prepared and butchered two
more roosters as the Team descended upon the (STEM) housing structure like the
flies that surround us might land on the food we have out at meal time. Members of the Team were hooking up
equipment, ripping the sixteen foot 2x6 boards into 1x3’s with a circular saw,
holding “cripple boards” or parts of the interior wall in place as they were
nailed or screwed down. It was truly a
sight to behold.
Krisitn And Patty Scholz
From
my end, with Todd’s help, the butchering went much smoother than last
week. As I skinned them and cleaned them
out, the quartered sections went into a pot of water to keep the flies at
bay. Brian and Gabe came over to watch the
process and learn the intricacies involved to secure meat we would need for a
meal. Brian wanted to see the process
firsthand to understand what would need to happen when they had chickens of
their own at Kijani Farm in the future.
It
also gave Todd a chance to talk to Brian about some of what we learned during
last night’s devotion on God’s ultimate power.
How does His power relate to Kijani, or the living conditions we have
seen, or our purpose as a Team? How do
we relate to both what we are experiencing and that same power?
After
butchering, we went and washed off the sections of the meat. Everything was used and nothing from the
carcass was wasted. We put them in
another pot and set them on the fire. It
would be a day of boiling the chicken to both cook the meat, and soften it,
while strengthening the broth.
4. Following
a quick lunch, some more lumber was delivered.
I joined in with the Team and helped set some of the header boards. Following that I measured boards while Patty
Scholz cut, so that we could build the framing for the windows that were also
delivered. The windows were delivered
when Jeff Ingersoll was dropped off and joined us (The last member of Team
Tumaini to arrive on Kijani Farm). John
Fay, Todd, and I did take one break to pull chicken meat that was cooking from
the bones. We threw the now tender meat
back in the broth with veggies that Kristin Scholz and Paul Fay had cut up and
put it back on the fire. The bones we
put back in another pot of water to leech any further nutrients from them. This we would use to make rice from.
Lumber Being Delivered
I Apparently Come By This Naturally-Helping Dad With The Barn-1974
5. When
work on the STEM House was all but complete for the day, Todd asked if I would
cut his hair. The generator was still running
as some of the Team finished up, so I grabbed my electric trimmers and went at
it. There really isn’t anything quite
like a buzz headed boy in the summer; perhaps that’s why I also went ahead and
cut Jake Rogers’ hair and did mine afterwards.
The Maasai men who were around camp at the time also liked the idea, and
asked if I would cut their hair too. The
first one up was Raphael and then came John.
I even trimmed the hair on their chins, but joked that I couldn’t use
the big trimmers like I had with me to do the mustaches under their noses. I told them I may just have to come set up a
barber shop in the bush here at Kijani someday and charge them some
shillings. They thought that was pretty
funny, but enjoyed having it done for free.
Long Hair And The Eye Is Getting Better
Todd's Buzzed Noggin, Kristin, And Me Cutting Raphael's Hair
Nice T-Shirt Raphael! : )
John
6. Today
was very productive on all accounts. We ate,
and then we cleaned up. All twelve of us
now, a complete “Team Tumaini,” sat around the fire as the sun set. This was a good thing, for when it dips below
the mountain range on the horizon, darkness falls quickly. By 6:30 you need to walk around camp with a
head lamp on. We shared our highs and
lows for the day as we talked; something that we have done quite regularly
since we’ve been here in Africa. It
helps to put things in perspective and bind our team together in both
commonality and understanding. It was indeed
a full day from morning to night here on the flip side.
This
Sunday was a day of firsts, a day of insight, and a day of reflection; all of
that shared through these “Bulleted Points.”
·* I awoke to a beautiful sunrise with a
nearly full moon still in the sky; from moonlight to sunlight. I recorded the sounds through the tent
screen. It’s one of the first mornings
there has not been cloud clover to begin the day, and that after a cool, breezy
evening that was good for sleeping.
Sunrise Over The Rooster Coop On Top Of The Outhouse
VIDEO AND SOUNDTRACK OF THE MORNING:
* Todd’s left eye is completely swollen
shut. After being stung by the bee on
Friday afternoon, it had initially swelled, and then went down before he went
to bed that first night. On Saturday he
awoke to the area between his cheek, and below his eye swelled and puffy. He had put on some cortisone cream and taken
some Benadryl, but nothing worked to slow down the swelling. In fact, when he awoke today the area from
his eyebrow down toward his mouth has swollen tight. He is uncomfortable and totally
frustrated. We ate breakfast (Fay’s
famous pancakes on a griddle), and then loaded up in to the truck to make the
trek to the little village of “Maili Tisa” just south of us. Our Maasai friend Benson came to Kijani on
his motorcycle. His brother John drove the
motorcycle out and down to the village.
Benson rode up front in the truck with Brian Dellamater to give him
directions. Since it was Sunday, we
first went to the doctor’s house, as the clinic was closed. Benson walked down some back, side streets
for a few minutes, and then returned with the doctor and one of the doctor’s
friends. Together with Todd and me, the
two guys smashed into the back seat.
With 6 total guys crammed into the truck, we made our way out of the
back alley, across the main road, and over to the pharmacy called “Gensen
Chemist.” The doctor/pharmacist, named
Gensen, unlocked his little shop (about a 10 or 12 by 8 foot room) and looked
at Todd’s eye. Several people poked
their heads into the doorway, wondering what was going on. The doctor was professional, thorough, and
gave Todd some eye drops, cream, and two kinds of oral medicine to take each
morning and night. Gensen made Todd
promise that he had to have faith and believe, if he had any hope of getting better. I had Todd stand next to him so that I could
take a picture and have proof back in the States that I had properly taken care
of my “First Born” (as they say here in Kenya); there may or may not have been
times in the past when I’ve brushed things off too soon that required medical attention.
Time To Go To The Doctor
Driving Out With Benson And Brian
Medical Attention With The "Chemist" in Maili Tisa, Africa
Todd And The Good Doctor, Gensen
* Benson then left on his own motorcycle and
John jumped into the front cab of the truck.
We filled the truck with gas down near the village of Namanga, and then
stopped back in Maili Tisa to purchase water and a few groceries in a little
store. We went through one of the
periodic, police “check points” (complete with assault weapons), and were
waved on through (as it’s typically for trucks). When a guy (not a policeman) waved at us to
slow down, as we went through a gap in the tire shredders that were laid out on
the road, John quickly said, “Don’t stop. Don’t stop. He’s a crazy man.” That was helpful and good to know as Brian
stepped back on the gas and swerved around the ensemble.
The Little Grocery Store In Maili Tisa, Africa
Sunday In Maili Tisa
Police Check Point-Crazy Man On The Left Side Of The Vehicle Ahead
Driving In With John And Brian
·* Although a bit warmer with the rising
sun, I went running when I returned to Kijani.
It’s my time to reflect, think, and sift through my emotions when I run. I drank a bottle of water first, practiced my
Maasai words of “hello” (“sopa”) and “thank you very much” (“ahsanti sana”),
and took off down the path. I passed
many people throughout my route that stared at me as the white man ran by, but then
responded with surprise and with kindness once I waved and spoke to them. Several times I had to wait for their cows
and goats to pass by. The cows
especially would move to the side when I said, “Hep,” and then look at me over
their shoulder as I ran behind them. It
made me smile. I ran all the way out to the “tarmac” today (the main paved road) and back; about a ten kilometer total
distance (6.2 miles). It felt great.
Baby Goats Playing On A Termite Mound
A Beautiful Songbird
·* When I was nearly back from running
and passing John’s father’s boma, the others from the Kijani Team waved me
down. They had been invited over for
tea, and so I stopped with them, despite being in my running gear and sweaty. John’s mama (Nora) cooked a pot of tea and
goats milk for us. John came along and
sprinkled in some sugar for us as well.
Amazingly, they had enough cups for each of us. The tea was hot but good. Another older man (who had stopped by),
John’s brother Moses, and one of his brother’s wives (with her two little kids)
were present. John brought out his
father’s iron spear and Moses showed us how you hold one end of it and try
raising it without bending your elbow.
Along with several others, I tried it and was successful in doing
so. As we drank our tea and worked at
communicating with each other, Mama Nora had John bring out some necklaces to
give to Brian’s “first born” (Noah) to take to his mom (Heather) once we get
back to the United States. The boma was
primitive, make no doubt, but whatever it may have lacked in the eyes of the
beholder, it made up for in gracious generosity. After thanking Mama Nora for the tea, John
gave us a walk up an old dried river bed beside their property line and then back
to Kijani. Along the way the sun was
hot, but I thought it was pretty cool when we found an old tortoise shell and
the leg bone from a giraffe.
John's Parent's House Within The Boma
·* Once back, I took a splash bath and
then Todd and I did our laundry. We used
one tub to suds the article of clothing and scrub it a bit, and the other to
rinse it out. We hung them up on a
clothes line in the dry air.
Washing Clothes
Hanging The Clothes To Dry
·* Once we were finished, and while our
dinner of cheesy/spicy rice was cooking, Todd and I sat in the shade and
journaled. After eating, we sat around
the campfire and had a devotion led by John Fay. It was on Hebrews 4:14-5:10 and how Jesus is
greater than the high priest back in the day, as He was both approachable and
sympathetic to our weaknesses.
VIDEO OF THE BOMA CAMP:
After Dinner Team Picture
·* After cleaning up from dinner we sat
in a circle around the campfire. Each
Team member recalled the past and told stories of when they had experienced the
greatest pain. They were all great
stories that ranged from broken bones and shots to the head, to trips to the
hospital, being thrown and stepped on by a one ton bull, falling from tree
forts, dehydration, and deeply cutting various appendages.
·* Todd and I finished the evening by
taking night pictures on his camera of the stars and rising moon. He’s really good at capturing such
things. To the North, unbelievably, you
could see the same “Big Dipper” constellation that you can also see from the
Northern Hemisphere where we live in America.
In addition, we also located the constellation named the “Southern
Cross” which is directly above the South Pole.
In the Northern Hemisphere it’s the North Star (named Polaris) that is
part of “The Little Dipper” and directly above the North Pole. This cannot be seen from the Southern
Hemisphere.
The Big Dipper
The Big Dipper Outlined
The Southern Cross Over The Black Hill (Upper Left)
It’s these things: health and
healing, running, hospitality, clean water to bathe and wash in, tales around a
crackling fire, and time marveling with my son at God’s awesome creation, that
cause me to take stock in the blessings we have had, and continue to have. These are the “bulleted blessings” that are
brought to the forefront here on the flip side.