Friday, June 30, 2017

Africa - Day#9 (Bulleted Points-6-11-17)

Kijani Farm's Boma Camp
Sunday, June 11th, 2017
            This Sunday was a day of firsts, a day of insight, and a day of reflection; all of that shared through these “Bulleted Points.”
·        I awoke to a beautiful sunrise with a nearly full moon still in the sky; from moonlight to sunlight.  I recorded the sounds through the tent screen.  It’s one of the first mornings there has not been cloud clover to begin the day, and that after a cool, breezy evening that was good for sleeping.
Sunrise Over The Rooster Coop On Top Of The Outhouse
VIDEO AND SOUNDTRACK OF THE MORNING:
    Todd’s left eye is completely swollen shut.  After being stung by the bee on Friday afternoon, it had initially swelled, and then went down before he went to bed that first night.  On Saturday he awoke to the area between his cheek, and below his eye swelled and puffy.  He had put on some cortisone cream and taken some Benadryl, but nothing worked to slow down the swelling.  In fact, when he awoke today the area from his eyebrow down toward his mouth has swollen tight.  He is uncomfortable and totally frustrated.  We ate breakfast (Fay’s famous pancakes on a griddle), and then loaded up in to the truck to make the trek to the little village of “Maili Tisa” just south of us.  Our Maasai friend Benson came to Kijani on his motorcycle.  His brother John drove the motorcycle out and down to the village.  Benson rode up front in the truck with Brian Dellamater to give him directions.  Since it was Sunday, we first went to the doctor’s house, as the clinic was closed.   Benson walked down some back, side streets for a few minutes, and then returned with the doctor and one of the doctor’s friends.  Together with Todd and me, the two guys smashed into the back seat.  With 6 total guys crammed into the truck, we made our way out of the back alley, across the main road, and over to the pharmacy called “Gensen Chemist.”  The doctor/pharmacist, named Gensen, unlocked his little shop (about a 10 or 12 by 8 foot room) and looked at Todd’s eye.  Several people poked their heads into the doorway, wondering what was going on.  The doctor was professional, thorough, and gave Todd some eye drops, cream, and two kinds of oral medicine to take each morning and night.  Gensen made Todd promise that he had to have faith and believe, if he had any hope of getting better.  I had Todd stand next to him so that I could take a picture and have proof back in the States that I had properly taken care of my “First Born” (as they say here in Kenya); there may or may not have been times in the past when I’ve brushed things off too soon that required medical attention.
Time To Go To The Doctor
Driving Out With Benson And Brian
Medical Attention With The "Chemist" in Maili Tisa, Africa
Todd And The Good Doctor, Gensen
  * Benson then left on his own motorcycle and John jumped into the front cab of the truck.  We filled the truck with gas down near the village of Namanga, and then stopped back in Maili Tisa to purchase water and a few groceries in a little store.  We went through one of the periodic, police “check points” (complete with assault weapons), and were waved on through (as it’s typically for trucks).  When a guy (not a policeman) waved at us to slow down, as we went through a gap in the tire shredders that were laid out on the road, John quickly said, “Don’t stop. Don’t stop. He’s a crazy man.”  That was helpful and good to know as Brian stepped back on the gas and swerved around the ensemble.
The Little Grocery Store In Maili Tisa, Africa
Sunday In Maili Tisa
Police Check Point-Crazy Man On The Left Side Of The Vehicle Ahead
Driving In With John And Brian
·        Although a bit warmer with the rising sun, I went running when I returned to Kijani.  It’s my time to reflect, think, and sift through my emotions when I run.  I drank a bottle of water first, practiced my Maasai words of “hello” (“sopa”) and “thank you very much” (“ahsanti sana”), and took off down the path.  I passed many people throughout my route that stared at me as the white man ran by, but then responded with surprise and with kindness once I waved and spoke to them.  Several times I had to wait for their cows and goats to pass by.  The cows especially would move to the side when I said, “Hep,” and then look at me over their shoulder as I ran behind them.  It made me smile.  I ran all the way out to the “tarmac” today (the main paved road) and back; about a ten kilometer total distance (6.2 miles).  It felt great.
Baby Goats Playing On A Termite Mound
A Beautiful Songbird
·        When I was nearly back from running and passing John’s father’s boma, the others from the Kijani Team waved me down.  They had been invited over for tea, and so I stopped with them, despite being in my running gear and sweaty.  John’s mama (Nora) cooked a pot of tea and goats milk for us.  John came along and sprinkled in some sugar for us as well.  Amazingly, they had enough cups for each of us.  The tea was hot but good.  Another older man (who had stopped by), John’s brother Moses, and one of his brother’s wives (with her two little kids) were present.  John brought out his father’s iron spear and Moses showed us how you hold one end of it and try raising it without bending your elbow.  Along with several others, I tried it and was successful in doing so.  As we drank our tea and worked at communicating with each other, Mama Nora had John bring out some necklaces to give to Brian’s “first born” (Noah) to take to his mom (Heather) once we get back to the United States.  The boma was primitive, make no doubt, but whatever it may have lacked in the eyes of the beholder, it made up for in gracious generosity.  After thanking Mama Nora for the tea, John gave us a walk up an old dried river bed beside their property line and then back to Kijani.  Along the way the sun was hot, but I thought it was pretty cool when we found an old tortoise shell and the leg bone from a giraffe.
John's Parent's House Within The Boma
·        Once back, I took a splash bath and then Todd and I did our laundry.  We used one tub to suds the article of clothing and scrub it a bit, and the other to rinse it out.  We hung them up on a clothes line in the dry air.
Washing Clothes
Hanging The Clothes To Dry
·        Once we were finished, and while our dinner of cheesy/spicy rice was cooking, Todd and I sat in the shade and journaled.  After eating, we sat around the campfire and had a devotion led by John Fay.  It was on Hebrews 4:14-5:10 and how Jesus is greater than the high priest back in the day, as He was both approachable and sympathetic to our weaknesses.
VIDEO OF THE BOMA CAMP:
After Dinner Team Picture
·       After cleaning up from dinner we sat in a circle around the campfire.  Each Team member recalled the past and told stories of when they had experienced the greatest pain.  They were all great stories that ranged from broken bones and shots to the head, to trips to the hospital, being thrown and stepped on by a one ton bull, falling from tree forts, dehydration, and deeply cutting various appendages.
·        Todd and I finished the evening by taking night pictures on his camera of the stars and rising moon.  He’s really good at capturing such things.  To the North, unbelievably, you could see the same “Big Dipper” constellation that you can also see from the Northern Hemisphere where we live in America.  In addition, we also located the constellation named the “Southern Cross” which is directly above the South Pole.  In the Northern Hemisphere it’s the North Star (named Polaris) that is part of “The Little Dipper” and directly above the North Pole.  This cannot be seen from the Southern Hemisphere.
The Big Dipper
The Big Dipper Outlined
The Southern Cross Over The Black Hill (Upper Left)
            It’s these things: health and healing, running, hospitality, clean water to bathe and wash in, tales around a crackling fire, and time marveling with my son at God’s awesome creation, that cause me to take stock in the blessings we have had, and continue to have.  These are the “bulleted blessings” that are brought to the forefront here on the flip side.
            See you along The Way…

Wednesday, June 28, 2017

Africa - Day#8 (Back At It-6-10-17)

Todd And I The Morning After The Bee Sting Before Heading Back To Kijani
The Elephant Outside Of Our Patio Door
Saturday, June 10th, 2017
            After falling asleep to the sounds of a hippo, Todd and I woke early today to the low sounds of an elephant just 50 meters off our little patio.  We had breakfast and prepared to check out of our safari resort.  First our Team had to say goodbye to our server, and had a picture taken with him, as he had been with our group throughout our whole stay.  His name was Peter (like our guide), and as a Team we appreciated his efforts.  He was soft spoken, hardworking, and went out of his way to serve us each time we ate.  Peter has a great smile, and after a few meals we all got used to each other and joked back and forth; especially about the order in which we ate our meals (soup, salad, and meal or visa-versa).  I left him with a hand written thank you letter.
Our Team With Peter, Our Server At Amboseli Serena Safari Lodge
            On the ride out of the park we took some different roads.  The land here was hilly, rocky, and barren except for the thorny trees; beyond that was what looked like the salt flats again.  Even still we saw giraffes, and each of the aforementioned herbivore animals from the past blog journal entries.  
Purple Heron
Long Toed Lap Wing
Weaver Bird Nests
Close Up Weaver Bird Nest
One mammal that was new, was the long necked giraffe gazelle known as the gerenuk.  It was an animal that I had literally just talked to our guide Peter about that very morning after seeing a list of various animals in the resorts directory.  That was exciting, especially since it was right in front of an actual giraffe.  The gerenuk can go without actually drinking water, as it gets its water from the leaves it eats.
Giraffe With A Gerenuk In Front Of It
A Gerenuk - Giraffe Gazelle
            The ride out from the park entrance to the main road, in the border town of Namanga, was simply crazy bumpy at times.  I tried to capture some of it in a video.  I napped for a little bit, even with the jostling, as it sort of rocked me to sleep.
Our Driver Sylvester Gripping The Wheel
TWO VIDEOS:
            After we returned to Kijani Farm, we said good bye to our guide Peter and our two drivers, Nicholas and Sylvester.  I really appreciated all of those guys, so Todd and I had a picture taken with them.  I also gave each of them a personal letter that I wrote out late last night while at the resort.  I’m hoping the letters capture the essence of what I wanted to say to each of them.  They are good men indeed.  Todd gave his hat to Sylvester.  Perhaps it’s one he’ll wear for his next safari with someone else.
Me, Sylvester, Peter Our Guide, And Todd
The Water Tank On Top Of The Shed - Fed By Free Gravity!
            Once the vans left, we unpacked and had a quick lunch as new lumber was being delivered.  Brian Dellamater and Jake Rogers had been busy around Kijani in our absence; negotiating roadways to get supplies brought out to the farm, and walking boma to boma to meet and talk with the nearby land owners.  Brian estimated that he and Jake had walked 10 to 12 miles yesterday while we were on safari.  In the end, they worked through the various issues and misunderstandings.  In fact, it even involved the local Maasai chief who did a masterful job of helping to bring understanding and compromises.  Our Maasai friend and neighbor, John, had helped as an interpreter.
Some Of The Lumber Being Delivered
            With that, less than an hour after coming back, we jumped into our work; each with a share in the process.  The housing structure we are working on is being referred to as the “STEM House,” which stands for “Short TErm Mission” Housing.  The Dellamater Family will be leaving Illinois and moving into this structure towards the end of this year.  Once their own house is built, the STEM house will be available for those who come to help with the different community aspects of the farm (health care, education, church, work on the farm, and clean water).  Most building structures in Kenya are made of brick and cement, but those materials couldn’t be brought into Kijani at this point, although the plan is to have the Dellamater’s main house build from these materials.  The STEM house was going to be built from metal storage units, but those too were impossible to haul back into the farm’s location.  So, the result of these facts was that the STEM House is going to be built with a wood frame and wrapped in metal sheeting.  This is ok with me, as I like Kijani’s remoteness.  Hopefully a blend can continue to be maintained between the natural wilds that surround this property and the viable needs that it will address.
Kristin And Nyles In The Background, And Brian And Jake In The Front
The Calves Watch Us Over The Boma Wall
          Every member of the Team was involved in setting up equipment, measuring boards, cutting boards, ripping out warped boards and replacing them on the roof, nailing in spacers for the floor joists, and adding ceiling joists.  Thicker joists were added in the center of the house to support the water tanks that will be added in the future. 
            Noah Dellamater and I worked on the warped boards specifically.  Todd helped where he could.  The Team members who had been stung by the bees yesterday were doing OK, despite some being sore after being stung multiple times.  Todd on the other hand was having a difficult time as his eye continued to swell, which impeded his vision and balance for climbing around on the STEM structure. 
Looking Great From This Side
Hmmm...I'm Hoping That Starts To Go Down By Tomorrow
            Some of the warped boards had to be removed completely.  Others we managed to clamp down and use long screws to straighten them out and secure them flat to the trusses.  To “clamp” them we used a little bit of ingenuity.  We would loop a strong piece of rope over the warped board, down under a ceiling joist, and tie it tight.  Next we slipped a small piece of scrap wood through the middle of the loop, and then by spinning the scrap board we were able to shorten the rope as it tightened the warped board into place.   The whole process worked very well.  The only issue came after one of the warped boards had been secured in place, and I commented to Noah that it would be fun to watch the scrap board unwind like a helicopter propeller.  The rope, when plucked, sang like a guitar string.  When I let go of the scrap board, it spun around so quick that it hit the back of my right hand before I could even begin to move it out of the way.  It hit with a force just short of a splitting mall on a piece of campfire wood.  It was a stupid thing to do, especially so far from a hospital, and we’re not even supposed to say the word “stupid.”  Anyways, it wasn’t broken…much, but it hurt like crazy.  To date, two weeks later, it still has a lump on it, and my whole hand goes numb if I bump it on that spot.  As my wife Cindy’s boss in the screw machine shop used to say, “It’s a badge of honor.”
Dusk And The Long Shadows Before Dinner
            We all worked hard that afternoon, having enjoyed the once in a life time safari.  We were also elated to be back in the bush at Kijani Farm; now our home base on the flip side.
            See you along The Way…
Stories Around The Campfire

Tuesday, June 27, 2017

Africa - Day#7 (Encounters-6-9-17)

Early Morning Lioness
Friday, June 9th, 2017
A.M.
            From where I sit, in this safari van, as the sun rises, I can see 50 or 60 elephants both near and far.  In the foreground is a small flock of guinea hens.  I am in awe and I am humbled.  I can hardly wait to tell me parents and sisters that I’ve seen the birds we used to have on our farm growing up; now here in their natural element.  The guinea is a unique bird, with a face that looks like it is covered in white, garish makeup.  With a call that sounds like “buck wheat,” these birds used to wake us early in the morning as they repeated this sound over and over.
Grey Crowned Crane
Guineas
Video:
Mirror Image
Black Bellied Bustard
Yellow Billed Egret
Grey Heron
Glossy Ibis
A Hippo In Hiding
            Hippos emerge from the grassy marsh.  The marsh is filled from water seeping up out of the ground; spring fed as runoff from Mount Kilimanjaro on the horizon to the west.  Gazelles, zebras, and wildebeest gnus are scattered everywhere throughout the alkaline soiled grassland.  In the thicker grasses, a pride of lions rest.  Their only movement is when they get up to find another place to go lay down and try to get comfortable.  Even as they disappear, they still see you through the grasses; the cubs, the lionesses, and especially the male just off to the side.  Todd keeps saying “Clever Girl” aloud; a quote from Jurassic Park that makes us laugh.  The lions are massive cats, with sinewy muscles that ripple when they walk. 
A Lioness Moving To A New Resting Spot
Clever Girl
A Massively Impressive Male
A Place To Hide
Soaking In The Warming Sun
African Jacana-The "Jesus Bird" Because It "Walks" On Water
Cattle Egret
            Our guide and driver, Peter and Sylvester, are patient and very knowledgeable.  They take their time driving, and stop often to explain what’s around us.  We see so much more than the other safari companies whose trucks and vehicles drive quickly from place to place only looking and searching for the next big thing.  We on the other hand (from Moriah African Tours), are slow and steady.  As my Dad back home often said to me as a child, “Patience before you become one.”  Think about it, as it’s a funny play on words.  Due to the fact that our drivers have kept it “status quo” while driving, they have been able to show us so much more.  They’ve explained the life here in minute detail; both the small and often over looked, as well as the big and shockingly magnificent.  To date, we have seen close to 25 different species of birds, and almost 20 species of mammals; all unique and many in great numbers.
Impala
Yellow Baboon
Black Faced Vervet
Brunch After The Morning Safari
The Rooms At Serena Amboseli Resort
The Dining Room
Agama Lizard

-------------------------
P.M.
            With strong arms, Sylvester grips the steering wheel of our safari van.  He has to with the rutted, bumpy, gravel road.  This road is smooth compared to what we came in on yesterday.  Then, Sylvester had to maintain an iron grip with hand and arm muscles tense to keep us on the road.  As we boarded today, he commented that we will, “Look for an encounter.”  Indeed!
African Cape Buffalo
Fish Eagle
            This afternoon we are seeing many species of animals; most up close and personal.  Among those is the fish eagle not unlike our bald eagle in the United States, except the white extends down onto the shoulder.  It was eating a fish while standing on a rock.
Observation Hill In The Distance
Greater Flamingos
Reed Buck
            As we make our way along the edge of the Enkongu Narok Swamp, extending toward Observation Hill, we see many hippos; grazing and out of the water, basking in the sun.  They are huge with their massive heads and bodies of bulk.  Their coloring is dark, but with a tint of reddish orange under their bellies.  The way they plow into the mud to reenter the water is indeed impressive.  If I tried that in waders, I would be stuck there forever with nothing left but my bleached out bones.  They are able to do what they do, stepping and surfing into the muck, at 3,000 plus pounds.  As we drive around the waterway, we look forward to climbing the hill overlooking the vastness.  It’s the one place you can park and get out of the vans here in Amboseli. 
Preparing To Hike Up Observation Hill
Me Looking Over The Lake And Swamp Far Below
Our Guide Peter, Scanning The Horizon
            The hike up to the top of Observation Hill is steep along the staircase, but the view is breathtaking.  Our guide, Peter, encourages us to stay on the stairs specifically, as the soil off to each side is sensitive to erosion with limited plant life.  Once at the top, some of our Team members are taking pictures on top of a rock structured kiosk, while the rest of us are with our guide Peter, looking down on the water at the hippos and flamingos.  After five to eight minutes, Peter tries valiantly to call the Team together for a group picture on the hill’s edge, when suddenly a few of the guys start running around wildly.  Nyles, Gabe, and Noah specifically are flailing their arms.  Someone yells out, “Bees!” and then panic ensues.  You can see bees swarming all around the heads of various Team members now.  Gabe says, rather matter of factly but with a worried look, that he is getting stung.  Peter, realizing what’s going on, yells out, “Run…Run for your life! Run for the vans!”  It is chaos, plain and simple.  We all are running for the staircase now, the opportunity for a group picture forgotten, but at this point ten of us are all trying to get to the one small ribbon of steps leading down.  Most try sticking to the stairs, but it’s hard to jump, and run, and watch where you are stepping.  Some are running off to the side, onto the forbidden ground, but everyone is yelling, and spastically swinging at the air while trying to descend and stay under control.  People are shouting, as the bees sting again and again; they won’t stop and follow in clouds.  Noah finally veers off to the side, kneels down, and covers his head, but only for a second before continuing down.  Todd and I run by him and encourage him to keep going.  I know the right thing would be to stop and help, but we are each surrounded and outnumbered.  Our drivers Sylvester and Nicholas, talking next to the vans down below, have puzzled looks on their faces as they try to formulate what’s going on.  You can see they are fearful we’re being chased by something big and exotic, but upon hearing someone once again yell, “Bees,” they jump into action and open up the van doors, awaiting our arrival.  Many of us are now swinging our hats around trying to ward them off, as Gabe slowly comes to a walk halfway down.  He has been drilled well over twenty times already, and has now gone into “give up mode.”
            Finally we make it to the bottom when it just as suddenly stops.  I am instantly relieved as I really didn’t want to get into a van with the possibility of trapped bees sealed in with us.  Each of us is talking at the same time, trying to assess the damage, while figuring out what has just happened.  It is decided that it is an encounter of random, unusual circumstances.  Paul and Todd each has been stung once under their eye.  Noah and Peter, like Gabe, has received multiple stings to the head and arms.  John Fay has a few as well.  The rest of us, miraculously, have somehow avoided them for unknown reasons; as everyone had them flying around us.  We start pulling out stingers, almost like small thorns.  We also began to check the swelling around each sting to make sure nobody is having an allergic reaction.  Patty Scholz, who had been holding on to several cameras for other Team members when we had been on the top, has a “kattywampus” phone video that captures our helter skelter escape.  This will be funny at a later time and date.
            It was decided that those who were stung multiple times would return to the resort as a precaution.  Kristin, showing those who are going to return how to use her EpiPen in case of a delayed reaction to the stings, accidentally injects herself during the demonstration.  Now she too must join the van of the walking wounded that is returning.  Despite the shock and pain, it was also a comedy of errors of sorts; nobody’s fault, just plain dumb luck.
            As Patty, John and Paul Fay, Todd, and I loaded into Sylvester’s van; John remarks that, “There are not many people that can say they were part of an attack.”  Todd and I simultaneously add, “And survived!”  The animals of note that we see this evening are a warthog and a family of hyenas laying about their den just ten feet from the van.
A Wart Hog Face That Only A Mother Could love  : )
A Laughing Hyena
A Close Up
A Mother Nursing Her Pups At The Den
Two Different Types Of Vultures (One is A White Backed)
Black Winged Stilt
Kilimanjaro-Mowenzi (Left Peak) And Kibo (Right Peak)
Another African Sunset
            Hmmmm.  Is it divine providence or an inkling?  Either way it is a great call Sylvester; you predicted a day of iconic (although unforeseeable) “encounters” on the flip side.
            See you along The Way…