Monday, June 26, 2017

Africa - Day#6 (Something Different-6-8-17)


A Classic African Acacia Tree
Thursday, June 8th, 2017
            I ran again this morning, felt great, and enjoyed seeing the fresh tracks in the dust.  This time I did two separate trips up the trail road and back.  Afterwards, I washed and rinsed off by using a wash basin and taking a “splash bath;” cupping and throwing water up over my body.  I did this as I christened the shower stall side of the outhouse, now that the roosters have been moved and sanctioned to their new coop.  I repacked a day pack, wolfed down a bowl of oatmeal, and then grabbed a granola bar and snack mix pack to bring with me, as I joined the Team and loaded into one of the two safari vans that had driven back in to Kijani to pick us up.
            The Dellamaters had said that when you come to Africa you need to go on safari, to experience the animals and culture as another facet of this country.  We were excited to go on safari, and yet there was another part of me personally that hated to leave Kijani Farm.
            Brian and Jake Rogers, who were staying behind, were planning to use the time during our absence to try to communicate once again what supplies we would need from the mill, and the proper type of roofing and siding.  In addition, they needed to shore up the trail road and the ability to use it to allow the supplies to be brought in.  When we arrived back in camp on Saturday, we would have five solid days to close in the frame work of the house.  Jeff Ingersoll was expected to have flown in to Africa by then, as the last member of our Team.  These things were our hope and prayer as we departed, but as Brian often says, things just work differently in Africa as you talk through issues and negotiate how to proceed.
            Already since we first set foot in camp, Brian has been in several meetings, sitting in the shade with members of the local Maasai and on the phone (with a Safari “SIM” card it allows you to use your phone anywhere apparently).  He has been talking to the various businesses he in dealing with, and Anthony in Nairobi (who works for this particular safari company, called Moriah, and is also on Dellamater’s Kijani Farm-Board of Directors).  I’m slowly beginning to understand the connections behind the scenes, and how things work.  I just know that Brian has felt pressure between trying to have a rented truck that works when he needs it, and then having the Team here to help without all of the necessary supplies in camp.  The truck that he rented to bring our supplies down from Nairobi had bare wires behind the dash, and was piecemealed together.  Luckily between Noah, Gabe, and Jake, who know about vehicles, they were able to crawl under it and get it going again.
            Anyways, we have had plenty to do to keep us busy here at Kijani, but we also understand as a Team that Brian wants to utilize our manpower.  These are some of the conditions we have faced so far; conditions that will hopefully be cleared up upon our return.  And so with that monumental task left to them, the rest of us left for safari in Amboseli National Park; south of us near the Tanzania border, and at the base of Mount Kilimanjaro.  Luckily God is bigger than earthly issues.
On Safari
            I loaded into the van driven by Sylvester with our guide Peter sitting beside him in the front.  Members of the Team that were in this van included Todd, Noah Dellamater, and John & Paul Fay.  Nyles Bates, Gabe Dellamater, and Patty & Kristin Scholz rode in the other van, driven by Nicholas.  We drove south to a little village named Namanga where we stopped by a little souvenir shop.  Many objects had been carved and painted by the people scouring the premises, asking you to name a price for one of their items.  The building was unique in that it was both rough and rustic, and yet very clean and tidy.  A few people from our Team bought some things.  We then left the paved road and went onto a washboard, dirt and gravel road (named C#103) that wound around toward Amboseli National Park.  Noah told us we should, “Stay loose at the hips and move with the van.”  I replied, “If this van was a sailboat we’d want to sit on the high side.”  Sylvester often drove in the ditch where it was smoother than the actual road.  Frankly, I thought it was awesome.  It reminded me of traveling on some of the roads going into the beloved Pigeon River State Forest that I grew up next to in Michigan’s Northern, Lower Peninsula.  This was something different though.  Along the way, just off the roadside, we saw giraffes, zebras, and a few ostriches. 
TWO VIDEOS:
            Once we came to the main entrance, we were surrounded by a group of Maasai women who tried to sell us necklaces and bracelets.  It was hard to continue saying, “No thank you,” over and over as the guards checked over the passports.  We were there for about 15 to 20 minutes.  After a while the ladies switched to wanting to trade me something, or pay me for the necklace I was wearing.  They were very persistent, and it conjured up emotions that I had to wrestle with on the spot.  Finally, we switched the conversation to learning Maasai names for the animals we would be seeing in the park.  The ladies seemed to enjoy that, and we all laughed as they tried to explain the words while I tried to interpret what they were saying to me and write them into my journal.  Todd helped, and did better at translating and pronouncing the words, which made the women, laugh even more.
            As we prepared to leave, the ladies once again went back to pleading for us to purchase something.  It really was difficult to deal with, and know exactly what to do as they were right next to my side of the van with the door open.  When our driver Sylvester pulled the door shut to leave, I put my hand on the window as if to signal that I was sorry, and we drove through the gate.
            The emotions of seeing people in poverty, or begging us to buy something from them as we entered the park to stay in a lodge, felt very conflicting.  I still was wrestling with this even as we drove through landscape that looked like pictures I’ve seen of the salt flats out in Utah, back in the States.  We began to see wild animals that you typically only see in a book or on TV.
            Along the way to the Amboseli Serena Lodge, we saw and took pictures of many, many animals, both on a camera and my phone, while documenting a running list of the various species in my journal.  I suppose it’s the science teacher in me, but I wanted to know what each critter was, and their names.  Fortunately Peter & Sylvester obliged, and provided me with lots of information.  I was very glad I had brought our school’s camera, as it allowed me to zoom in very close to the animals that I saw.  We ended each stop by saying, “Sowa Sowa,” which meant “OK,” so that Sylvester knew we could continue driving onward.
            Once we drove up to the lodge, Todd and I checked into room #71.  The lodge is bizarre, in that it’s an island of sorts within the confines and wilds of the park.  Amboseli National Park itself is huge, as its area is more than 150 square miles.  After getting settled, we joined the rest of the Team for lunch in the dining room. 
            For our late afternoon safari, we reloaded into our same vans.  We added to my running list I was writing down after seeing two separate prides of lions, and two hyenas; among the many species of birds.  The setting sun was awesome as well.  Unfortunately the clouds masked us from being able to see all of Kilimanjaro, but we could see the snow at its peak.  When we returned from the drive in the fading light, we waited just a few minutes, and then had dinner at 7:30.  When the sun sets, it gets dark quickly here in Africa.  After dinner we made our way back to the room.  Todd sent a few messages to his girlfriend and I did too with my wife Cindy once the Wi-Fi came on.  It was mid morning back in the U.S. and almost a week since I had last communicated with the home front.  We went to bed with the low sounds of hippos out in front of our room here on the flip side.
            See you along The Way…

PHOTO GALLERY:
Maasai Giraffe
Zebra
Thompson's Gazelle
Egyptian Goose And Blacksmith Plover
Submerged Hippopotamus
African (Cape) Buffalo
Black Headed Heron
Goliath Heron
A "Crash" Of Hippos
Hyenas Wallowing In The Mud
Wildebeests (Also Called Gnus)
Reed Buck
An Elephant With Flared Ears
A Close Up!!
An Agama Lizard
Elephants Can Drink 600 Liters Of Water A Day (200 Gallons)
Grant's Gazelle
Wart Hog - A Fan Favorite
Grey Crowned Crane
These Birds Were Absolutely Beautiful
Ostrich
African Lioness
The Male Lion Off In The Distance
A Hyena Gnawing On A Wildebeest Skull
A Lioness And Her Cubs
Sacred Ibis
Female Common Water Buck
A Male Water Buck - About The Size Of Our Elk In The U.S.
Sunset

Saturday, June 24, 2017

Africa - Day#5 (Three Emotions-6-7-17)

Running In Africa - Red Dirt Smeared On My Legs
Wednesday, June 7th, 2017
            Today I’ll mix it up and not necessarily write on every detail of the day.  I’ve been doing that in my own personal, daily journal.  I call this one my “blog journal,” and it is from here that I will type up my writings to then post into my blog.  
            A donkey in the direction of the Black Hill’s base just did a scream/bray.  It’s not the kind of thing you hear in South Beloit, Illinois.  A rooster in a nearby boma to the west crows, which sets off one of our roosters (now in their new coop and set up on the roof of the outhouse for the night, to keep them up off the ground and away from predators).  Birds of unknown varieties call, scream, or screech.
            When I think through yesterday I had three distinct times when I really was moved by emotions.  These emotions seemed to come to the surface unexpectedly from different triggers.  They were raw and at some point I need to sit, beyond my journaling, sleep, or personal thoughts to sift through them. 
            First, I ran in Africa.  I did three laps back and forth over a red soiled, dusty two track.  I ran each time up past John’s boma dwelling and back, waving each time at someone different that stood outside the thorny walled entrance.  Until we finish working through the access for the path/two track into Kijani, Brian felt like that was as far as I should run for each “lap.”  I felt good and enjoyed the freedom of movement; the feel of each step in the dirt, as I left prints with those of other people or animals.  The sounds of the birds and the sight of them (one in particular was a brilliant indigo blue), were intriguing.  The air in my lungs at this higher altitude, which is about 4,000 feet more than back at home, are the things that I remember most from this “first run” in Africa.  Todd took some pictures of me as I returned, and I washed off by taking a splash bath using a basin before breakfast.  Even after cleaning up, I could hardly believe that I was actually here in Kenya, doing the things that I love to do.
Home Stretch In A Beautiful, Raw Setting
            Secondly, after breakfast I presented a devotional lesson I had prepared for the Team.  I shared an email I had received from my Uncle (with his prior blessing).  It was on his perspective from working in less developed areas with the Peace Corp.  I wanted to be respectful of him, our purpose here with our group, and then Kijani Farm’s mission.  It led to a good discussion and reflection for our group.  Brian Dellamater appreciated it, and talked about how they want Kijani to be different than some missions that are in the guise of helping, but sometimes ram ideas of their own down the throats of the people they are working with.  Kijani is assisting, as they walk alongside the Maasai in the surrounding community.  Learning is happening through a constant ebb and flow.  I then read from John Eldredge’s book, Beautiful Outlaw, about the playfulness of God.  It’s a refreshing perspective of the way Jesus interacts, and has relationship with his disciples.  I ended by reading verses from the Bible (John 10:1-10 and 1:43).  Jesus tells a story of a shepherd.  He himself led in ways contrary to the day, when he asked his disciples to join him.  Rabbis at the time typically had people ask them if they could follow and learn.  Jesus mixed it up a bit.  I have been reminded of Jesus’ leadership as I watch the young Maasai boys (Jospa, Amos, and Joseph), and their herds of cows.  If I walk by, the cows move out of the way and watch me out of the corner of their eye as they browse and graze.  Yet, when the boys whistle softly in a special little tune, the cows respond and follow.  It’s those thoughts, and the desire to have that kind of personal relationship with God, that I could hardly sing as Kristin played her guitar and the song “Good Father.”  My eyes dripped and my throat was too tight.  I thanked my Father God for his bountiful blessings on so many levels.
Paul, John, And I working On A Chicken Coop - Mid Morning
Moving The Roosters From The Out House/Shower To Their New Coop
            Lastly, I spent the afternoon in preparation for dinner.  We had the chickens in camp for a reason.  To make our traditional tin foil dinners, a mainstay of any camping trip, it required butchering.  As I’ve mentioned before, I grew up on a small farm.  Death often was a part of life; sometimes by accident and sometimes on purpose.  Early on, my parents taught my sisters and me to respect the process.  Whether on the farm with the animals, on the water fishing, or in the woods hunting, killing was to be quick and only for a reason.  I remember in my teens I butchered six chickens in a day; something often lost in our present generation of prepared food.  That task, on that day long ago, was exhausting but necessary.  Some of the animals we had on our farm became pets, some became food.  On this day in Africa, I butchered two chickens.  I tried to express my feelings before doing it in front of a group of curious onlookers.  Two of the onlookers were Maasai men, John and Lanku, who raise cattle and goats to butcher for food as part of their everyday life.  They wanted to see the whole process as they typically don’t eat birds.
Lanku, Me, John, Patty, And Kristin Packaging The Foil Dinners
            I’ll admit that although the death blow was quick, I really struggled through the butchering.  It’s been almost thirty years since the last time I’ve processed a chicken, and that, with an audience.  While preparing the second bird, however, I realized that the first one was difficult because it was old and tough.  The second rooster was easy in comparison.  As I cleaned the meat, the rest of the Team chopped potatoes, carrots, onions, and tomatoes.  With the help of the two Maasai men, the three of us wrapped it all in three layers of foil.  John expressed to me that he liked to see how we prepared food compared to the goat they had cooked on stakes next to the fire.  We cooked the meal 13 minutes per side over hot coals that Todd and Noah had prepared.  We took a break only to look for the wart hog that squealed just outside of the boma somewhere.  Although admittedly the old bird’s meat was tough, the food overall tasted awesome, and everyone seemed to appreciate it.  Preparing meals is something I do like to do.  For some reason, gearing up to begin the process of butchering the roosters itself was emotional.  It conjured up memories of my childhood while in the midst of wild rawness.  Preparing food in the bush requires more than pulling something out of the refrigerator or throwing it into a stove or microwave; it requires you to roll your sleeves up and apply a little elbow grease so to speak.  To eat a meal, the entire process simply takes time and effort.  It was intense combining the expectations that I had, with those that the Team may, or may not, have had.  My prayer was that it would all work out in the end, and fortunately it did.
The Foil Dinners Packed With Veggies And Chicken Meat

John, Me, Lanku, And Patty As We Wait For The Meal To Cook
            Today I ran, felt a communion with God, and butchered chickens.  Each of these three things was distinctly different.  Each part of the day was intense in its own, specific way.  Each was a small glimpse into how I am wired, and the gifts God has granted me.  These were my emotions on the flip side.
            See you along The Way…
Dinner In The African Bush

Friday, June 23, 2017

Africa - Day#4 (Getting At It-6-6-17)

The "Kijani Boma Camp" From The Air
Ground Level-Our Tent In The Back Has The Maroon Bottom
Tuesday, June 6th, 2017
            Yesterday had been a day of settling in and getting used to the immediate surroundings.  Today began in the early hours as I woke to dogs barking off in the distance.  Dogs here are not pets, but animals that follow their owners at a slight distance and are used to warn people of predators and/or danger.  Something must have been near a neighbor’s home area called a “Boma.”  Several large birds called from the trees as well.  From the gathering light, I thought dawn was arriving, so I pulled out my books and wrote in both my daily and blog journals on the previous day.  After writing, I stepped out of the tent for a minute and realized the moon was the source of the light.  Later, someone from our Team would tell me that the time had only been around 12 midnight.  I went back to bed, only to wake a while later to the sound of jackals carrying on just beyond the thorny hedge next to us.  I’m guessing the presence of our tents set them off from their typical hunting pattern.  As they made their way off to the south, hyenas laughed and yipped beyond them.  I drifted off to sleep again before later waking to the sounds of birds and zebras in the distance.  I could tell these birds were calling as part of their morning routine to set their territories.  Although a bit broken, I had slept well, and so I pulled out my books again and prepared a devotional lesson that I could share with the Team at some point on the trip; something each of us will do during our tenure here.  By then it was light out, although the sun itself was hidden behind clouds. 
            John Fay and I set ourselves to cutting up potatoes and peppers.  His son Paul did the same with the onions.  We cooked this over a propane cooker in a large skillet; adding eggs once they were tender.  It tasted delicious as the Team ate in two shifts since we could only get half of the cut up food into the skillet at one time and still stir it.  We gathered around the fire afterwards, as Brian Dellamater shared his devotional from a chapter in a book called, The Master Carpenter.  It was about sharp tools, and how we ourselves can sharpen ourselves to be resourceful and grow in God’s purpose for our lives.  Kristin Scholz played from her guitar as we sang a few songs.  It was a good way to begin the day. 
Preparing Breakfast
Morning Around The Fire
Almost Ready To Eat
Our Devotional Time
A "Von Der Decken's Hornbill" Landed In The Tree While We Met
            Brian then said he was going to need to run his neighbor John to the Dr. in a village just south of us, and proceeded to list some projects that needed to be completed.  We could jump in to anyone of those projects based on our interest and gifts.  Todd and I began emptying out the shed to be reorganized, and set ourselves to building a shelf for the chainsaws.  We both found it interesting that we wanted to be involved in something that required organization.  He would continue doing this with Noah Dellamater and Nyles Bates to the point where they even labeled the shelves between food, tools, and supplies.  Patty Scholz and his wife Kristin worked with Jake Rogers, and Gabe Dellamater along with John and Paul Fay; setting up the generator (which was surprising quiet compared to most) and began sizing and cutting older boards laying around the building structure to be fashioned into saw horses we could use for both tables and elevated construction.  I went around and began trimming tree branches within the Kijani Farm boma area.  The boma is specifically the home area within the property area (called the shomba), sectioned off by a hedge of thorny branches piled at hip to shoulder height.  The trees within the boma had been hacked off with machetes a few months back to help make the hedge.  I was simply smoothing out the cuts with a hand saw.  Raphael and John from the Maasai were concerned with what I was doing apparently, but were reassured that I knew about trees.  Raphael came over and tried the saw on a few branches and then offered advice on what branches I should take.  He did well when he tried considering he usually uses his long knife (called a “Kisu”) and only has his left arm; having lost his other as a child in a car accident.
Laying Out The Supplies To Organize
The Shelf Is Complete
Patty Scholz Cutting A Board
Noah, Paul, And Jake Measuring Boards
Paul, Nyles, And John Assembling The Saw Horse
            We broke for lunch as the clouds parted and the sun came out.  We also made sure we were drinking water and putting on sunscreen.  Paul Fay and I then began constructing the frame of a rectangular prism that could be used as a sort of seat over the hole in the outhouse.  It would help with the otherwise necessary squatting.  Our only interruption came from Brian who had just come back from his second run to the doctor; this time with our neighbor John’s wife.  Brian informed us that two giraffes were on the edge of the property.  We quickly walked down the two-track road and were able to get close to them; close enough to get some fantastic pictures.  It’s the kind of thing that just doesn’t happen in everyday life for most people.  We savored the experience.  On the way back, Nyles found a tortoise shell behind a termite mound, and brought it back to clean it up; eventually sticking it into some tree branches.  Later we would learn that this had become a sort of gag/joke that people before us would hide so that it could be “rediscovered” by the next group.  That was pretty funny.
The Outhouse Before
Paul And I Cutting Boards For The "Prism Seat"
Paul Sanding The Seat Smooth  : )
The Outhouse Seat Is Ready For Use
Giraffes Right Next To The Camp
Nyles And His Tortoise Shell
Noah Dellamater
Jake Rogers Organizing The Remaining Lumber
            I went back to trimming a few other trees as we finished our tasks and began to clean up.  I did stop at one point and talked to a young boy named Amos who came by and was watching us as his cows grazed.  We scratched our names in the dirt with a stick so we would know who each other was.   I followed him out to look at and talk about his 17 cows.
Brian In One Of His Many Discussions-Communication Is Key!
Amos And His Cows
Amos And I Watched Ants Putting Seeds Into Their Hole In The Ground
Patty And Krisitn Scholz With Todd Making Some Final Cuts
The Team Finishing Up The Day's Work
Todd And Noah Try Out A Hammock Out In The Shomba
Gazelles
            For dinner, John Fay put some water on to boil for our macaroni & cheese and flavored rice dinner.  About that time we also saw some gazelles browsing as they walked by.  In different groups, in different places around the boma, we talked and caught our breaths.  A delivery truck was coming with supplies and we were waiting.  When it finally came, Brian found warped and poor lumber in addition to the wrong roofing.  What had been built so far, came from this same company back in February and March, but this had been an obvious case of trying to unload some unwanted product, so it had to be sent back.  Already there had been some issues using the series of rutted roads to get into the Kijani property, so this added to the frustrations.  We set some previously made doors on top of the newly made saw horses to use as tables around the fire in the gathering darkness, and then the Team talked.  We shared the highs and lows of the day and then prayed.  We thanked God for his goodness, the things that we had seen, and the things we had accomplished on this day.  We also admitted to Him that the goals we want to achieve (specifically on the building and while at Kijani) are not always His goals.  We needed to be open to His plans, and let the frustrations of changed schedules go.  Sometimes it’s good to remember that life has complications that you have to patiently work through; even here on the flip side.
            See you along The Way…
Todd And I With A Selfie
Putting The Chickens To Pasture
One Of Two Hawks That Came To Watch Our Chickens!
A "Whistling Thorn - Acacia" Tree